Category Archives: Essays

Steamed Hake with Hosee Fat Choy (or Oysters and Black Moss) 蠔士髮菜蒸魚

The Chinese love puns. No more so than on New Year’s, where almost all our dishes involve a pun of some sort. For instance, nian gao 年糕means New Year’s Cake, but gao 高 is also the word that means “to elevate” which … Continue reading

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Competition

So this is a story about my phenomenal cousins, and by far, my rawest, roughest writing ever. Having said that, I hope it provides a snapshot of some of my favorite people in all their glory, and explains why I … Continue reading

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Disasters

My cooking disasters began when I was eight years old. I made raisin-oatmeal cookies for the bake sale from my mother’s Maida Heatter book. My mother told me that, in her opinion, cookbooks always made desserts too sweet, and so … Continue reading

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Marrowbones 3

When I was younger and had more energy, my cousin Jay (who also took me to eat ossobucco) and I would go to the Bromberg brothers’ Blue Ribbon at the end of a long night and eat their marrowbones. This … Continue reading

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Marrowbones 2

I enjoy eating marrowbones in restaurants.  There’s something sensual about dipping your spoon in your bone, spreading it on toast, with a bit of Chablis. Also, hopefully you are surrounded by good looking people, preferably slim, dressed in dark colors. … Continue reading

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Marrowbones 1

Call me lazy, but I could not resist posting this old essay. This actually engendered my article in Saveur magazine, “Bone Gatherer,” which you can read here: http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/Bone-Gatherer. It is, perhaps, a little angrier, and I wrote it before I … Continue reading

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Charlotte’s Web and pork chops

  “Breakfast at six-thirty. Skim milk, crusts, middlings, bits of doughnuts, wheat cakes with drops of maple syrup sticking to them, potato skins, leftover custard pudding with raisins, and bits of shredded wheat… “Twelve o’clock – lunchtime. Middlings, warm water, … Continue reading

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